One of the first lessons I learnt about motorcycling is that maintenance
and repair are different things. In my experience maintenance is
entirely my responsibility while repair I can leave to my friendly
mechanic. For example. My mechanic will gladly replace or repair
my brake pads but may not add a few drops of brake fluid into the
brake reservoir. He will change my oil but may not inform me that
a rubber breather pipe for the oil sump is looking worn and brittle.
He will fix the starter motor but may not top up the battery water
in the battery. He will replace my front tyre but may not report
to me that four of my spokes are loose. He will replace the chain
but may not replace the rubber chain guides.
With this in mind it is you the rider who will be on the receiving
end with something goes wrong when the details of regular maintenance
are neglected. Here is a simple program that even the least DIY
minded rider can implement and therefore keep their pride and joy
on the road. This best time is before you mount your bike to go
on a longer ride. This is a good time to cover the most pressing
items e.g. oil, brake fluid. When you wash your bike is an opportunity
to do the more detailed items. Finally the day before you take your
bike in for a regular service. This is the time for a nut by nut
inspection so that you can discuss your bikes needs with your mechanic.
This program is divided into these three opportunities i.e. Pre-Ride
Inspection, Pre-Wash Inspection and Pre-Service Inspection. There
should become a lot of overlap as you become more familiar with
your own bike this is a good thing.
Leaks Here your garage floor tells most of the story but
also check the shocks for suspension oil. Also keep a look-out for
parts of your bike that are more soiled than they should be. Sometimes
a rubber overflow pipe comes loose and fluids overflow onto your
frame. If you do find a leak you will need to establish whether
it is oil, fuel, water or brake fluid. Bear in mind that brake fluid
eats through your paintwork
Lights Check that all lights are working i.e. indicators,
headlamp (low and hi) and all warning lights in the cockpit
Tyres (tires) Check that they have pressure. A hard kick
for the rear and a thumb for the front are adequate for now. Use
your own hand held tyre pressure gauge once every ten days or so.
Tyre gauges at service stations are notoriously inaccurate. Also
keep an eye out for cracks, tears and sharp objects in the tyre
Front Brake Fluid Reservoir Ensure that the level is correct
as this is the brake that packs the most stopping power.
Chain Is it correctly tensioned and adequately lubricated?
If it needs a bit of attention you can do that when you return from
your ride as it is unlikely to be that critical. If your bike has
a master link check that it is good condition (endless loop chains
obviously do not have a link)
Fuel Check your odometer and/or fuel level in your tank.
Also check the rubber pipes around the petcock ( fuel tap) for obvious
leaks. With this information you can decide when and where you will
be stopping for fuel.
Oil Your oil level is best checked when you stop for fuel
when the oil is hot (check your manual for specific instructions
for your bike). Many bikes cannot accept an entire 500ml can of
oil without becoming overfilled. Check your manual to find out the
difference between the low level and the high level in ml. Then
when you add oil you can ask the attendant to add half or three
quarters of the can. The remaining oil in the can you will just
have to leave behind.
Includes the items above with the extra checks outlined below
Fluid levels Check the rear brake reservoir and the cooling system reservoir.
Also the water levels in the battery. It is a good idea to buy your own battery
water from a pharmacist as I have it on good authority that some service centers
just use ordinary tap water.
Loose bits/missing bits A bike vibrates a lot more than a car and many
of the parts are more flimsy. Therefore bolts easily loosen on parts that are
not directly attached to the engine. If this remains a problem with your bike
consider fitting spring washers where you can. You can also replace regular bolts
with nylocks bolts or you can add a drop of blue Lockitt solution to the bolt
itself. All of these will safely prevent bolts coming loose.
Corrosion The problem with corrosion is that once it starts it is very
difficult to stop. Therefore even the small hint of it should be treated immediately.
Chat to your mechanic should you find any
Wheel Rims Spin the wheel if can to check that the rim is not buckled
and that it is perfectly round. Solid cast alloy wheels are prone to loosing their
shape especially if they hit a pothole too hard. Spoked wheels should have all
their spokes checked. Do this by tapping them with a screwdriver. If they make
a high pinging sound they are fine. Loose spokes can be tightened. Spokes whose
threads are stripped and therefore cannot be tightened can be replaced when you
have a new tyre fitted.
Brake Pads A quick visual inspection can tell you when they need to be
replaced. The pad is made up of a steel backing plate with the pad bonded onto
it. The pad part should be thicker than 1.5mm. Check your front pads carefully,
as they are the ones that pack the stopping power. Brakes should release the brake
disks as easily as they apply pressure
Cables/Controls Check the ends of the front brake cable i.e. where it
attaches to the front brake lever and where it ends. All you are looking for it
a clean look without any little broken wires that make up the cable. Do exactly
the same with the clutch cable and any other cables that have visible ends. Ensure
that the action is smooth as the cable tightens and releases. If not, it could
mean that the cable is breaking and needs to be replaced.
Includes all of the above with the extra checks outlined below
Electrical wires Visually inspect every electrical wire that you can
see. Ensure that the insulated covering is in good condition. Wires that become
chaffed can start to short on the frame leading to difficult to find problems
Rubber Check all rubber tubes, pipes and coverings. They must be flexible
and soft. Check that the ends have not developed a small split. Check that they
are firmly attached. A burst or leaking pipe is not something you want on a long
Chain Check the rubber rollers and guides that surround the chain. It
is easy to see when they need to be replaced
Brakes Check the action of the brake i.e. how the different parts move
as you apply and release the lever or foot pedal. The entire action should be
smooth. Fluid or air should not escape from any part of the mechanism. Rubbers
covers should be sealed and tear free. The pads should release as easily as they
apply. Every second service ask your mechanic to strip, clean and rebuild the
calipers that force the pads onto the brake disks. This is more important if you
regularly ride off-road as dirt gets into the calipers and begins to retard their
Plastics If you motorbike has a fuller fairing covering a lot of the
engine area I suggest that you remove these and deliver your bike to your mechanic
without them. This makes your discussion with the mechanic clear and unambiguous
you can point exactly to a brittle pipe or leaking connection. When you collect
the bike you can then actually see the work that has been done it is not hidden
behind a plastic that you may only remove months later.
At this point you are probably thinking that the list is too long and it does
not sound as easy as I mentioned in the opening paragraph. Let me assure you that
once you understand this list, you will in reality check all these things easily
and almost sub consciously. You will also appreciate the feeling of confidence
that will come every time you get onto your bike knowing that everything is in
good order and that your ride will not be broken by some unexpected breakdown
at the side of the road. Every aspect of your ride will be predictable. You will
also have smaller repair bills, which will be evenly spread out over the year
into affordable chucks not all in one huge bill once a year that can leave your
budget in tatters afterwards.
After the service you may be thinking of getting an MOT carried out on your vechicle.
There are pre-mot points set out on our site. For
more MOT information follow this link.